at idle I pull 10" hg vac under the blower I called don and he said that blower set up will make full 7 psi boost at 2800 to 3000 rpm ... I just went out and re did some things .. I built a stop and found true zero tdc.. distributor body is reset so I can adjust more base or idle timing... reluctor is lined up to pick up perfectly .... rotor perfectly at no 1 terminal... I turned the dizz 1/4 clock wise to crank it in...when I get my 60.00 valve cover gaskets tomorrow ill start it and adjust timing to 10 to 12 advance then total should be between 30 and 33 with the current curve to come in at 2500 @21 deg I would guess and we shall see what it is going to do if it continues to get to 220 ill be out of ideas.. a 6btm box ya that's 400 bucks lol but are we not trying to keep it advanced because it being retarted is what keeps heat in the motor and advancing it will remove some heat

 

okay progress... I removed the 160 stat and I installed the blue water restrictor from the moroso 3 pack kit the blue is the middle one.. I moved the radiator as far forward as I could it is basically pretty much in front of the core support im running 16 deg of advance and I installed.......wait for it......... a 18 inch single fan with a shroud from a ford fusion and I sealed it to the radiator I also changed my air fuel ratio to 12:5:1 I let it run in the garage for 45 min and it seems to level out at 210 not sure if I should leave it alone or try one of the other restrictors

 

my only concern with the 180 stat is the temp is leveling off at 210,, and I slowed the flow down and it is taking longer to heat up by putting a 180 back in it would heat up quicker and flow more than it is now once the stat opens and with the 35 gpm electric water pump it will move to quick through the radiator for the fan to remove the heat ,, I bought extra stat gaskets if I was to get on the right track to fixing this I believe it may come down to flow rate at this point because it is actually better than it has been.,,, I spoke with don Hampton today and he also recommends cranking the timing to 30 degrees at idle locking the distributor and if needed get a two or three stage retard and pull ignition timing back out as needed that seems odd to me 30 degrees at idle

 

yes he said the restrictor is good, the distributor is a kmj performance mechanical its just a cheap distributor but it fits under the blower I limited on what to use and I half to call kmj and get info on how to lock it, no I don't have a retard system yet, Don said everything seems right just crank it to 30-36 degrees and drive it, lol he said I am in a very different level of performance when you stoke to a large cubic inch and throw a blower on it gives it more cubic inch principal's and theory's are different oh how things react.

 

okay so what are some option for retarding the timing automatically without a 6btm is there a rpm activated retard control

 

yea I been looking at the 8680 the 8981 and I also looked at this one if I went with a rpm switch what one and how would that all work my last blower car was a small chevy 20 years ago I didn't half to mess with all these electronics it ran fine

 

here is a idea how about a msd 8680 and the msd switch 8950 with that set up I can get it for 110.00 bucks

 

right now hot or cold the motor starts great no drag

 

right now I am locked and the timing is set at 25 total I plan to twist it to the right and go to at least 35 like don Hampton recommended and the timing retard is for the top end in case of detonation I figure the adjustable knob I could run the most advance with removing just enough at top end to prevent detonation if at all

 

okay it has been a bit but I did some things and I changed the radiator to a 21x26 down flow frostbit with the frostbite shroud and I changed the fanes again to the perma cool 13 inch @ 3200 cfm each and I went to a 180 stat no difference in whats going on so I now begin to doubt weather my head gaskets are right so I tore it down and nooo there on correctly the little square hole in the gasket is tward the rear of the block sooo now I go get a boroscope and I scope the block for obstructions none found I scoped the cv 35 gpm pump nothing in there the only things left is that the pump is too small or there is a issue with the pro comp aluminum heads and I also scoped those soo I don't know race fans I never seen this befor in my life

 

okay progress.. I called the blower shop even though its a don Hampton blower they think they have solved the problem its partly my fault for not double checking but I assembled the 871 as directed by the notes from don in the kit and the pulley configuration is WRONG I am running a 34 b and a 31 top pully that's 9.6 overdriven on a 9.5.1 motor = about 17.5.1 idle compression ratio the problem makes perfect sense now so I rdered the correct pulley combination to get me to 10.5 ratio lowering the compression ratio thus lowering the HEAT going into the motor lesson learned check you parts verify your instructions and procedures verify combinations I have spent prob around 2k in radiators fans shrouds pumps gaskets and countless hrs of maint time for a 76.00 pully and 5 min to change it

 

i just started putting the motor back together today I am GOING TO TAKE MY TIME lol it will be right as rain, I did make a video of how the head gaskets are SUPPOSED to go on because I found allot of info on it and allot of people was still a bit confused strange no one ever did a video before but I haven't found one so once I get that up I will put in a link to it. allot of people are telling me the pulley combination wouldn't be the problem because I am not making any boost HOWEVER I am making HEAT inside the blower because in it self it is making pressure inside the case super heating the air this makes perfect sense everyone should agree you air compressor in your shop doesn't stay cool at 150 psi its hot, what ever pressure is built up in the case expands in the intake to less than 1 psi but the air temp itself is still hot and once it reaches the combustion chamber it get allot hotter than its supposed to be and the cooling system cant keep up with it and it gets hotter and hotter ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,that's the way it was explained to me so lets put the theory to the test

 

here is a link to the head gasket video